Expeditions and Extravagence

Yesterday, I officially guided my first trip in India - cool! A nice and easy run down the class III+ Ganges river at high flows, maybe about 35,000 cfs. I found myself in the biggest wave train on the stretch and nearly flipped end over end, but we hung in there and made it through - probably 10-15 ft. waves, super fun!

Tomorrow, I'll follow that fun up embarking on my first river expedition here in India. Leaving at 6am, we'll head up the Ganges river valley into the Shivalik mountains for about four hours. Of course, we'll stop for chai along the way :) Our expedition begins on the Alkhanandra river and will go for 4 days and 3 nights, finishing on the Ganga right back in Rishikesh (the Alkhanandra meets with another river to become the Ganges above Rishikesh). It is a scenic trip with some fun, big-water class III rapids. I'm really excited to get out of the hustle and bustle of Rishikesh and head up into the mountains. Beautiful sandy beach camps, huge waterfalls, home-cooked Indian meals made by our chef, and good ol' river time with a great crew....should be a memorable time.

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I did a bit of preparation during my day off today, both for my upcoming expedition and Veer's wedding (which I mentioned in an earlier post). For the expedition, following my incredible shave yesterday, I went back to the barber for a "proper" Indian haircut. Flow, the kayaker from Austria and India veteran, came with me to the barber shop to confirm with the barber that I would receive the real deal. With cat-like precision, he snipped away with techniques I'd never seen before. Still, a haircut is a haircut. What really separates an Indian haircut from any I've ever received was the head massage at the end. The barber oiled up my hair with a cooling Indian cream and went to town. I wasn't sure how long it was going to go for as he kept going and going. It must have been about a 15 minute massage - what a way to end a haircut! I left, hair greased back, fresh as a daisy and my head, cool as a cucumber.

After my cut, I went to discuss wedding preparations with Arvind. Previously, we had talked about getting a traditional Indian wedding suit tailored for me, otherwise known as a kurta pajama. Since I was leaving for this four-day expedition, I wanted to make sure there was going to be enough time to make one for me once I returned. Deciding it was better to get it done today, Arvind explained that we would go to the best shop fabric shop in Rishkiesh, then go to a famous tailor who he has a special connection with to make my wedding outfit. Flow and Matthew decided to hop on the kurta pajama train as well!

First, Flow, Matthew, and I headed downtown to get some chicken for lunch (only available on the outskirts of town where it is legal, although you can get chicken in town if you know where to go and who to ask). Of course, we washed our lunch down with a lassi from Pappu Lassi. I tried the banana lassi this time but decided that there is just nothing like a sweet lassi. When in Rome...I had a sweet lassi too!

Arvind met up with us on his motorbike at Pappu Lassi where I hopped on the back and headed to the fabric store while Matthew and Flow headed out on foot to meet us near the tailor in a different part of Rishikesh.

Riding on the back of a bike through a crowded city center in India is so wild, especially on the back of a bike with a guy who keeps laughing and saying "without no risk, there is no fun!" Arvind navigated the maze of cars like the Class V raft guide he is, but still, what an adventure!

We made it to the fabric shop which is different than most as it is a government shop. In India, government shops have fixed prices and while a bit more expensive (or just fair), there is no "my price, your price". Free of haggling, Arvind discussed with the shop owner to find the best white fabric in our price range for our kurta pajamas. It's always fun to watch Arvind work his magic!

Even a simple conversation about amount and type of material is lively and animated

After getting the right type of a fabric, a really thin, high-quality white cotton, Arvind and I hit the road again to meet up with Flow and Matthew to go to the tailor.

To get to the tailor we had to walk through one of the largest ashram's in India, set on the Ganges in Rishikesh. It is a beautiful and very large place with lush gardens. When we got to the tailor shop, I was pleasantly surprised to see his humble, hole-in-the-wall abode.

The tiny, tiny shop had the main man, two other tailors and an assistant packed in amongst shelves full of fabric. After Arvind worked some more magic, as not just anyone can get a piece sewn by this man, we got fully measured.

Flow gets measured by the master.

After the three of us got measured up, we said thanks and headed back through the ashram. The total cost of my fancy, perfectly-tailored kurta pajama - about 1900 rupees - $38...only in India.

Getting back on Arvind's bike one more time, we weaved our way back home, with only one close call, or as Arvind said "very near!" :)

I'm not sure how many more times I'll get on the back of a motorbike, but I'm sure excited to wear my kurta pajama to Veer's wedding! Looking forward to that celebration on the 23rd and 24th of October.

I'm bringing my camera on the expedition and will be sure to take many pictures with a trip write-up to follow. Tomorrow is my birthday and I feel grateful to get to celebrate it on a beautiful river, in a beautiful country, with awesome people. I'll write again when I return....until next time!